Palembang in Indonesia is the capital of South Sumatra. It boasts a vast, muddy brown river called the Musi, across which lies the Ampera bridge that the locals are ever so proud of featuring on T-shirts etc. Having travelled to many countries, I always say Palembang is a place that 'could be'; clean up your waterfront and it creates a multitude of potential, take for instance, Cairo and Thessaloniki in Greece even. Unfortunately though, money does dictate and many homes, some looking derelict lie along the river and people have no choice but to bathe in such sewage infested waters; which I was about to have the joy of cruising in. FUN TIMES!
There is an island known as Kemaro, which has an interesting tale (to follow) and is around twenty minutes away from Pesar Enambelas ( Market 16). To hire a boat was easy and cost the three of us around ten pounds or 150, 000 in rupiah, there and back.
Boat stop
Meet our boat master
Our boat with added creak and chug- we like to travel in style.
Ampera bridge-prettier and more colourful at night
A pit stop at the petrol station
View from the petrol station
The journey there was interesting, the waterfront is mostly undeveloped and we played dodge the splash which is much harder than whack a mole, seriously!
Some of the houses along the river
Colourful boat, I did take a closer shot but realised that there was a naked man showering on it. Ooops!
A short while later, accompanied with tinnitus, we arrived at Kemaro island. So, story has it that the island formed from a love tale. A young Buddhist man of Chinese origin, fell in love with a Muslim, Indonesian girl named Fatima, against their parent's wishes. A chest was involved and for some reason some hidden gold which was flung into the river. The young man dove into the river to try and collect it and Fatima followed him, neither survived and the island formed from their misfortune.
Kemaro from a distance
Kemaro from a distance
The island is known to be very busy in February for Chinese New Year and involves lots of fireworks. Unfortunately, we weren't able to visit then and it is usually quiet at any other time of the year.
One of the leading gates
Close up of the gate
The story
Some interesting carvings at the base of the tree
The temple- which was closed
This kind of reminds me of the Helter Skelter slides at fairgrounds
Side view of the stairs
I'm attempting to tickle his belly, but yes i'm short
My new pal, Al
We soon realised that there was not much else to do on the island, so after a brief wander around and some rehydration, we headed back. It was worth a visit to see life along the river and to tick it off the list of course.
I have been in Indonesia for seven months now and there's always a dark cloud to every silver lining and i'm ready to talk about the flip side...
Born and raised in Manchester (just reminded myself of Fresh Prince) as a brown skinned person in a predominantly white society meant sometimes battling for your right to be in the country. I speak like i'm from the UK, educated in their system (pretty well, may I add) and I hold British values, so yeah, Do I view myself as British? Of Course! Yet some ignorant idiot might still think it's OK to yell, "Go back to your own country!". Well I am, you pillock!
There were points in school, where the teacher didn't quite understand why you were the way you were and treated you a little differently. Although, this is nothing in comparison to the generations before, some invited, some fleeing who had to fight harsher times with stories still kept behind closed doors. My parents being of the fleeing type, mum from Malawi ( a former British colony) and dad from Mozambique ( a former Portuguese colony); it can't have been easy to abandon their homes. However, my tricky moments growing up are rare and the majority of my surroundings are unified and colourful, with every race and every type- I LOVE IT.
In stark contrast, ah Indonesia or should I say Palembang, a city which feels as though the village has poured out and centralised but views still stand in the dark ages. They have a cinema though, with six screens and cosy chairs, so it's definitely a city.
I'm a bit of a tough cookie and pretty tolerant I think but i'm mortified by the amount of racism that exists in this society. Ask a local though and they will disagree. Can I blame them when 'Be White, Be Beautiful' is impregnated in their minds. Everyone knows of the indoctrinating effect of the media but it is the first time I have been exposed to such overt campaigning.
This is Dove (owned by Unilever) as I know it in the West:
A very touching clip- I totally agree
An equally touching clip
However, this is Dove as I know it here:
Amy, lowering her head in shame
Every person in this society seems to want to be white! What happened to be you, be proud?
A friend asked one day, whether it's the same as people wanting to use tanning products in the West. I had a good think about it and well, I don't think it is...you don't see 'Be Brown, Be Beautiful' slogans flying around, so I think it is people genuinely wanting their skin to glow. In contrast, white is seen as superior here and as time goes on, sadly, it is becoming more and more evident.
1 Sadness prevails
Student A: "What's wrong with you?".
Student B: "What do you mean?".
We all look at each other in confusion.
Student A: "You look black, you've been out in the sun too much."
Student B: Sadness in her eyes
I looked at her with the realisation that she has experienced this multiple times for being darker skinned but also see that she has a beautiful, genuine character and will surely go far. I of course stepped in and made it clear that I won't accept any form of discrimination.
2 Don't mess with me, I'm whiter than you.
Discussing a piece of writing and I ask Student C, "So what do you think is the difference between Student A and Student B?"
Student C: "She's fatter."
Student A: "Well at least i'm lighter."
3 Repetition
Where are you from?
Manchester.
Where were you born?
Manchester.
So you're from Manchester?
Yes, Manchester.
So you're British?
Yes, British
See what I don't get is they all watch Hollywood films and are exposed to media from the West and can clearly see that it isn't a purely white society (at least in the areas they are exposed to), perhaps ignorance is bliss?
4 Hold on mate
This is where it gets incredibly frustrating...
Walking through the cinema with a white friend and a mutual friend walks over. "Oh hiiiiiiiiiii!", followed with hugs, kisses, more fake hugs and kisses. I look at her and look at my friend. Hold on, haven't I spoken to you and spent more time with you overall and you're pretty normal behind closed doors. I look around...I get it. Cinema...foreigners...white person...credibility...profile. Understood.
5 He's from Papua
Out for a nice Indonesian meal with fun a plenty and all eyes on the bules (foreigners). Lots of banter going on with the staff and one sniggers, "...look at his skin, he's from Papua...". I'd be rich if I collected coins for the amount of times I have heard that. A colleague quickly steps in and points to his skin and says you and your skin, "bagus!", which means good.
Every little helps but I think this society has oceans to travel before minds are opened. But...perhaps two brownies can help fight the battle? Or can we? What is interesting is that though our white counterparts notice it, not all do and not to the same extent that we do. Is that because we are used to being implemented within a functioning society and identified as useful at home, but some of that has been taken away?
It also surprises me that in what is meant to be a Muslim country such things exist. The Prophet Muhammad's Last Sermon delivered on the ninth day of Dhul Hijjah 10 A.H. in the Uranah valley of Mount Arafat (Mecca), and who better an example to follow?
All mankind is from Adam and Eve, an Arab has no superiority over a non-Arab nor a non-Arab has any superiority over an Arab; also a white has no superiority over black nor a black has any superiority over white except by piety and good action.
Don't get me wrong, Indonesia has been good to me in many ways. It is a beautiful country that has a lot to offer and I have made some amazing friends. I must also add that this is mostly in Palembang and not so much elsewhere (though it still exists). So, Unilever, Dove, Ponds and every other whitening brand that works on hypocrisy, please remember my students sad eyes when she was told she wasn't beautiful because she was dark skinned.
But...i'm now sat here on the rooftop, taking in the sounds of prayer and watching the clear blue sky and soaking up the sun and can only think that no society is perfect and we are but humans.
